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TheHunter: Call of the Wild
Cheat Codes:
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Submitted by: David K.
Archery Guide:
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Written by Kanuzira.
This is a guide for al archery beginners and fanatics. I love the art of
archery and all the things that come with it, this is why I chose to make
a guide for you guys so everyone can enjoy the art of archery.
-=Introduction
The art of archery is much harder than using guns. With the bow you need to
compensate, the arrows arc and the arrows are effected by wind. Most shots
within 20m are most times spot on, from 20 meters and onwards you need to
calculate the wind and how it is going to effect it.
-=The Bows
In theHunter: Call of the Wild there are three Compound bows, the RAZORBACK
LITE CB-60, the BEARCLAW LITE CB-60, and the HAWK EDGE CB-70.
-=RAZORBACK LITE CB-60
The RAZORBACK LITE CB-60 is the first Bow that you can unlock at €6000.
It is effective against small game and medium game. It is a great bow but
for bigger game I would recommend the HAWK EDGE CB-70.
-=BEARCLAW LITE CB-60
The BEARCLAW LITE CB-60 is a free DLC that you can download on Steam and it
costs €6000. The bow has an tactical skin and better accuracy than the
RAZORBACK LITE CB-60. It also weight 0.5kg/1 pound more than the razorback.
Like the RAZORBACK LITE CB-60 I would recommend the HAWK EDGE CB-70 for
bigger game.
-=HAWK EDGE CB-70
The HAWK EDGE CB-70 is the most expensive Compound bow, costing €48,000. The
bow has 70lb let off and with this it has more power than the other two making
it better for bigger game. With the extra power it also gains a flatter
trajectory.
-=The Arrows
There are three types of arrows for different game.
The integrity bonus with arrows is important for your total score.
-=300gr Arrow
This is a lightweight arrow and has the flattest trajectory of the 3.
Due to the wide tip it has almost 0 penetration and makes it ineffective
against medium/big game.
-=Recommended animals:
-=Red Fox
420gr Arrow
This is a medium arrow and has a quite flat trajectory.
This arrow is effective for almost all the animals in the game.
-=Recommended animals:
Coyote
Roe Deer
Fallow Deer
Blacktail Deer
Whitetail Deer
Wild Boar
Black Bear
Red Deer
-=600gr Arrow
This is a heavy arrow and has a quite steep trajectory in comparison
with the other 2. This is the arrow you want to use for big game since
it has more mass and thus deeper penetration.
-=Recommended animals:
Roosevelt Elk
Moose
Bison
-=The Wind
The wind is one thing that you have to take in account if you are an
archer. If you want to calculate the wind I recommend the wind prediction
skill (Stalker) and the windage perk (Rifles). Otherwise you can use the
particles in the wind and the sound as an indicator.
After around 20m the wind is going to have a real effect on the arrow.
-=RAZORBACK CB-60 + SWIFT MARK 3
-=300gr Arrow
Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards
Pin 2: 40 meters / 43.74 yards
Pin 3: 90+ meters / 98.42 yards
-=420gr Arrow
Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards
Pin 2: 29 meters / 31.71 yards
Pin 3: 72 meters / 78.74 yards
-=600gr Arrow
Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards
Pin 2: 20 meters / 21.87 yards
Pin 3: 50 meters / 54.68 yards
-=RAZORBACK CB-60 + SWIFT MARK 5
-=300gr Arrow
Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards
Pin 2: 10 meters / 10.94 yards
Pin 3: 40 meters / 43.74 yards
Pin 4: 70 meters / 76.6 yards
Pin 5: 90+ meters / 98.42 yards
-=420gr Arrow
Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards
Pin 2: 10 meters / 10.94 yards
Pin 3: 29 meters / 31.71 yards
Pin 4: 52 meters / 56.87 yards
Pin 5: 72 meters / 78.7 yards
-=600gr Arrow
Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards
Pin 2: 10 meters / 10.94 yards
Pin 3: 20 meters / 21.9 yards
Pin 4: 35 meters / 38.3 yards
Pin 5: 50 meters / 54.68 yards
-=HAWK EDGE CB-70 + SWIFT-MARK 3
-=300gr Arrow
Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards
Pin 2: 40 meters / 43.74 yards
Pin 3: 90+ meters / 98.42 yards
-=420gr Arrow
Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards
Pin 2: 29 meters / 31.71 yards
Pin 3: 72 meters / 78.74 yards
-=600gr Arrow
Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards
Pin 2: 20 meters / 21.87 yards
Pin 3: 50 meters / 54.68 yards
-=HAWK EDGE CB-70 + SWIFT-MARK 5
-=300gr Arrow
Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards
Pin 2: 10 meters / 10.94 yards
Pin 3: 40 meters / 43.74 yards
Pin 4: 70 meters / 76.6 yards
Pin 5: 90+ meters / 98.42 yards
-=420gr Arrow
Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards
Pin 2: 10 meters / 10.94 yards
Pin 3: 29 meters / 31.71 yards
Pin 4: 52 meters / 56.87 yards
Pin 5: 72 meters / 78.7 yards
-=600gr Arrow
Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards
Pin 2: 10 meters / 10.94 yards
Pin 3: 20 meters / 21.9 yards
Pin 4: 35 meters / 38.3 yards
Pin 5: 50 meters / 54.68 yards
Coyote Missions Guide with Hotspots:
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Written by EdenStarGazer
This is a simple guide with locations for spotting and harvesting coyotes for
the Vualez missions in-game. I enjoy the missions because they provide a bit
of challenge.
-=The 'Coyote Hunter' is Not You=-
First things first.
You are not the Coyote Hunter.
These little creatures love to hide in the rocks. Maybe they are looking for
animals stuck here. Whatever the reason, it's easy to hear their little feet
tripping over the rocks. But, more importantly, he is well aware of you long
before you are of him. And, he is hunting you. He follows hunters around...
perhaps because he's interested in the kill you may leave behind.
This makes him an easy target, if you just let him find you.
-=Coyote Spotting in Leviathan - Vualez #1=-
This little lake off of Balmont Lake feeds the only good source of coyotes into
Leviathan area.
* Start at the Outpost to the NE.
* Approach the rocky bank (B) headed towards the little lake You'll hear the coyote
in the rocky area.
* Stand in the open grassy area between patches of trees (green triangle trees)
* Don't worry about the coyotes hearing you. They hunt you.
* Squat & wait while using the distressed rabbit caller now & then.
After a brief wait you'll hear one. Just keep waiting and he'll walk out to you
and you can id him for the early Vaulez mission. Then you can shoot him for the
good payout. This can be repeated if failure by fast traveling back to the outpost
and returning. Best time of day is 5am.
-=The Big Coyote Tour=-
The Big Tour requires you to harvest a coyote in each of the five districts.
This is really rather easy, and you will probably have to kill 2-3 coyotes before
you can drag yourself away from these very nice hunting spots.
But, the mission completion is very lucrative.
These are the 5 locations I used:
* Willipeg Cave back entrance- Highton Peaks
* Deer Stand just south of the Layton Canyon Outpost in Nordon - Northern Ridge
* Upper Cheelah Outpost & Lake - Southern Ridge
* SE corner of Highlake @ hunting stand near point of interest - Lake District
(West of the NE Outpost in Roonachee along the bend in the Oregon Trail POI)
* South of the Outpost below Roonichee Lake, just before the track near hunting
stand.
The back entrance to the WIllipeg cave can be reached directly from the outpost.
It is marked with the waypoint below. It can also be accessed directly by diving
into the front of the cave on your ATV & driving out
(after picking up the secret artifact.)
-=Late Night With the Dogs - Vualez Main Mission=-
* Revealing "The Moonlight Coyote Field" in Leviathan
* This mission opened up a new location for coyotes for me.
Though I'd explored both entire maps, and climbed over the Leviathan Volcano
I'd not been in this particular secluded field.
* When I found it canvassing the lake for this mission, the narrator had opened
with this line about "the full moon doing strange things to animals".
* When I walked into the clearing in the full moonlight at midnight, I was
surrounded by multiple species of animals, along with a marching coyote band.
Idk if this was triggered by having the mission active or not. I had a friend
test the clearing at midnight, thanks #SimplyMemes. He uses a different playstyle
than me. He has spent a great deal of time at hotspots mass shooting to hard
level & has been playing about 6 months longer than me. I enjoy the exploration
more than anything else. Though I kill about 25 animals daily, I explore &
complete missions in equal measures in the month I've played the game.
I have leveled pretty fast, on level 29 atm. But, he's several levels higher.
So, Memes did not have the Late Night With the Dogs mission available or active
when he did the experiment. Though he encountered a massive herd of species,
and slaughtered them all judiciously as I watched livestream, there were no
coyotes in the field. Barks could be heard in the area.
It is my theory that certain missions trigger various spawns.
I may be wrong in that. I will leave that right here.
A photo of the "Moonlight Coyote Field" location follows circled in red.
As you can see, my tent in the 2nd pic faces the cave on the opposite bank.
There is a line of trees behind me as I'm taking the photo, & the clearing
is behind the treeline. Do with it as you see fit. I'm not judging.
The Moonlight Coyote Field Location & my tent setup for sleeping til midnight.
Medved Taiga Mission: Caves Location:
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Written by Riccardo1993
Caves location for mission Bronze Age and other caves.
-=Bronze Age Mission Caves=-
Bronze Age 1: Cave #1, coordinates: -9918.750, -7703.785
Bronze Age 2: Cave #2, coordinates: -8956.530, -5183.183
Bronze Age 3: Cave #3, coordinates: -10003.160, -11213.761
Bronze Age 4: Cave #4, coordinates: -8217.118, -8678.675
Bronze Age 5: Cave #5, coordinates: -6582.271, -7201.572
-=Other Caves=-
Cave #6, coordinates: -6457.348, -10393.871
Cave #7, coordinates: -5046.169, -10591.723
Cave #8, coordinates: -6680.658, -5078.164
Cave #9, coordinates: -7185.993, -6060.759
Medved Taiga Trapper, Expedition and Nenets Point of Interest Locations:
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Written by Jobabysmaster
These are the locations of the Points of Interests for Medved-Taiga.
I think there are 10 locations for each category.
-=Trapper Locations=-
Location #1: -9210 x -10547
Locaiotn #2: -7995 x -10378
Location #3: -4789 x -11200
Location #4: -6502 x -8907
Location #5: -4675 x -7985
Location #6: -10503 x -9362
Location #7: -9399 x -8167
Location #8: -10594 x -7073
Location #9: -8463 x -5591
Location #10: -10283 x -5309
-=Nenets Locations=-
Location #1: -9088 x -11440
Location #2: -6817 x -10674
Location #3: -5871 x -8968
Location #4: -4216 x -7747
Location #5: -12133 x -8935
Location #6: -9788 x -7642
Location #7: -9070 x -6781
Location #8: -11830 x -5791
Location #9: -7710 x -6300
Location #10: -6703 x -6550
-=Expedition Locations=-
Location #1: -10170 x -10269
Location #2: ???
Location #3: -7642 x -8744
Location #4: -10412 x -8231
Location #5: -11834 x -8328
Location #6: -10967 x -6549
Location #7: -9904 x -5691
Location #8: -6476 x -7052
Location #9: -6854 x -5259
Location #10: -5567 x -5401
Tips & Tricks:
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* Don’t run unless you are travelling between locations.
(ATV is also great for this).
Running will spook any animals that are close by.
* Running/walking on the roads is quieter than running/walking in the vegetation.
* Wearing a backpack increases your visibility and noise levels significantly.
* Don’t use callers too often. It spooks the animals.
* ATV’s are useful but they do scare animals.
* Having your flaslight on at night does not spook the animals or increase
your visibility level.
* Keep you weapon loaded. There is nothing worse than having an animal nearby
and you can’t shoot it. And it can be handy if there’s a bear nearby.
* Hunting pressure. When you down an animal a purple spot appears on your map
at the place you shot it. It roughly takes 30 seconds to 1 minute to appear.
No shot = no kill. The pinker/purpler the spot the more chances of animals
avoiding the area. Best to move around.
Possible Diamond Animal Track by Weight:
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Written by O
-=Hirschfelden=-
Canada Goose 8.6 kg
Roe Deer 33 kg
Fallow Deer 96 kg
Red Deer 232 kg
Red Fox 14.06 kg
Wildboar 218.5 kg
European Bison 868 kg
-=Layton Lake=-
Mallard Duck 1.9625 kg
Jack Rabbit 6.34 kg
Coyote 25.8 kg
Blacktail Deer 89.5 kg
Whitetail Deer 95.65 kg
Roosevelt Elk 478 kg
Moose 590 kg
Black Bear 265 kg
-=Vurhonga Savanna=-
Scrub Hare 5.37 kg
Side-Striped Jackal 13.20 kg
Springbok 40.75 kg
Warthog 139.5 kg
Lesser Kudu 89 kg
Blue Wildebeest 272 kg
Gemsbok ??
Cape Buffallo 895 kg
-=Medved Taiga=-
Muskdeer 16 kg
Lynx 41.3 kg
Wildboar 218.5 kg
Reindeer 179.5 kg
Brown Bear 444.8 kg
Moose 590 kg
How to Mount Any Animal On Any Plaque:
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Written by Dakota
This is a guide created to help you mount any animal on any plaque in COTW Lodges.
-=Steps=-
* Mount the trophy you want onto another mount.
* Click trophy manager and select "Retrieve Trophy" on the animal you want to mount,
* Go to the mount you want to mount your animal on and press "E" while looking at it.
Don't worry if there is already an animal mounted there.
* When "Retrieve Trophy" comes up again, press "Enter" on your keyboard.
It should be mounted!
-=Note=-
If you have any animal you can place on the mount you want your animal on, I suggest
you place them on other mounts. If you don't, the placeable animal will end up being
placed on that mount instead of your animal.
Ammunition: Penetration vs Expansion:
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Expansion bullets make the animal bleed more and faster but the lack of penetration
means it will only hit one organ and you will have to be careful to avoid the bones.
This means it’s imperative to have a good angle/view when using expansion bullets.
Penetration bullets don’t do as much damage on impact but they can pierce through
bone and several organs at once, which is more lethal than any damage done with an
expansion round. Polymer rounds are ideal for one-hit kill shots via brain, spine
or heart.
The downside of polymer tips is that they need to hit multiple organs to be effective.
If you mess up and hit only one organ, the animal won’t die as quickly because
penetration rounds weren’t design for trauma damage like expansion rounds.
Polymer/Penetration tips are better 90% of the time and that’s why they cost more
money and take longer to unlock; it’s a progression thing. You go through less
effective material before you can use better stuff.
Hunting Strategy:
-----------------
Read the Codex/Tutorial Logs, Wildlife sections. The Wildlife entries will tell
you each species preferred habitats and when they are generally active. Need zones
are tied to habitat areas, so if you can find habitat areas, you’ll know where to
scout for zones.
When you are first starting to scout around for animal signs and need zones, don’t
go looking for them when the animals are going to be active and traveling. There
is no absolute guarantee you won’t bump into animals and spook them, but at least
you’ve reduced the probability. Spooking is inevitable, but the animals get over it
and will return to their normal routines after a while.
Split up your excursions into the field into scouting first, hunting later. Find the
travel corridors and need zones first, and come back to them on another day, well
before the animals are due to arrive (it’s somewhat random, just because a zone’s
occupancy time is 8am-12pm, say, doesn’t mean they will be there exactly at those
times – they’ll wander in and out sometime in that interval).
* Look for tracks: (a) backtrack them, you may find a need zone, and you are less
likely to bump animals; (b) forward track them, following the animal’s direction
of travel, BUT, only if you are not walking upwind to do it. Again, you might find
need zones somewhere along the way. You have to move slower, as you don’t want to
catch up to the animal and spook it too soon.
* Listen for animal vocalizations – you can head in that direction to find tracks –
but stop and wait for a bit.
* Use your binoculars often – scan the area around you for possible animals – you
can spot them – if they are in a need zone, it will be added to your map; at least
you’ll know where an animal is, and you can try an approach – at least you’ll find
some tracks to follow. Get up high somewhere and scan the landscape to spot animals
from longer distances.
It’s important that you stop often – this is what animals do themselves (if they are
not fleeing danger or just trotting along because they have someplace to be) – walk
a bit, stop, scent the wind, look around for movement or things that stand out from
the rest of the scenery, have a snack, drink, bathroom, or pause break before moving
on. Continuous movement is a dead giveaway that there may be potential danger around.
The reason for separating scouting and hunting into separate excursions is so you
can locate good spots and set up a concealed position from which to hunt. That’s
ambush hunting. You get there long before the animals are around and you can wait
for an opportunity. If you have the Tents&Blinds DLC and the Tripods&TreeStands DLC,
you can set up a tent as well (but not too close to the zone) and sleep, rather than
trekking in from an outpost. Don’t set up downwind of the zone, though – better to
set up so that you have a crosswind across your line of sight. Smart animals will
approach the zone from the downwind direction, so they can scent the wind for
potential danger. You can also ambush hunt near travel corridors or pinch points –
those routes that animals normally use to travel between habitat areas and zones.
The other form of hunting is spot and stalk – with this method, you find a position
with a good view of needs zones or potential zones and use your binoculars to spot –
once you find a potential animal, you can stealth approach to within shooting
distance – this is especially fun with bow hunting, since you have to get within
50m or so for a good shot, and that is challenging, but very satisfying. If you
have long range shooting ability and the right loadout, you can even take a shot
from your observation area. Again, be mindful of the wind and stay stealthy. You’ll
notice that there are convenient large boulders in many places – you can go prone
on top of those to get clear of ground clutter to get a good view of the area.
Gameplay Tips and Tricks:
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It would probably be more productive for us to list the ‘Don’ts’, rather than
the ‘Dos’, simply because this game has so many dynamics that are learned over
time and experience and would take pages to write.
-=Don’t run!=-
If you are heading to a specific area that you want to hunt, you can run until
you get within 350 yards. But everytime you run you WILL spook everything within
that area. And the higher level animals often don’t return.
The ATV will spook further to around 600 yards.
Being able to find good hunting in any area will be decreased every single time
you tap that run button or start up that ATV.
And getting into the habit of running is extremely easy when one doesn’t develop
the patience of properly approaching an area.
-=Don’t develop bad habits!=-
Bad habits are very hard to break later on. These include clicking on everything
to identify it. This can be unproductive for a few reasons. Learn to use your
own eyes to identify tracks/signature early on to avoid developing that bad habit
of being ‘click-happy’. Even though some missions will require it.
-=Don’t ‘glass’ quickly !=-
Being patient will become your greatest asset. Most people never develop this
skill. Glassing means using your scope or binoculars to scan for animals or sign.
And because of that glowing outline that shows around animals when they’re ‘lit’,
many people just quickly scan across broad areas hoping something will light up.
Another of those bad habits!
It’s undoubtedly better to go to system>options>interface and turn off that
‘spotting outline’, so that you don’t become impatiently reliant on it, never
developing the actual skill of finding what is really hiding in those woods.
-=Don’t kill immediately upon new maps!=-
Animal spawning mechanics are one of those well-kept Dev secrets. But one thing
that seems obvious to most of us is that, you need to open Need Zones onto your
new map, without ‘pressuring’ them, or worse, killing that same individual you
just used to put that zone on your map. Once you get zones on your map, and give
them some time to become used by more animals, you WILL start seeing more
animals of the species you opened the zone with in that area.
The fact that most new players will simply kill these animals right away is one
of the main reasons they won’t see many animals in their maps.
New maps pretty much require putting unruined zones on your map.
-=Don’t ignore Hunting Pressure!=-
When travelling the maps you must be aware of the purple to pink colored circles
on your map that denote the degree of pressure applied in an area. Pinker implies
more degree. It will not be productive to try to hunt in pressured areas, and it
can take a few in-game days for them to recover. Don’t assume the lack of purple
means that pressure has been removed. And be aware that you might be in an area
you pressured previously that hadn’t yet recovered, even though there might not
be any purple showing on the map.
-=Don’t use inadequate ammo!=-
This will result in your having to endlessly track cripples, often only to find
they stopped bleeding and leaving you in despair. Get within 150 yards and aim
broadside, at least until you can get the more powerful weapons.
-=Don’t neglect your Presence!=-
Every second you’re in their habitat, you are exposing yourself to their enhanced
senses. Some more advanced than others, so know your prey. Be aware that they
will far more often know you are there long before you know of them. If you go
to the menu under hunter settings you can find a list that shows exactly how many
animals you have spooked and what scared them. It’s eye opening.
In the bottom right corner of your HUD there is a horizontal line with a couple
of icons representing how visible you are, how noisy you are, and which way the
wind is blowing.
Ultimately you want that visibility line to either disappear, or be flat. When
flat, you can look around without exposing yourself, but you cannot take one
step without risk. When the line is gone, than you can take a step or two around
without exposure but you still have to watch for that line to change as you move.
Those hidden zones in bushes and trees are often not very large.
Being prone is tricky. Don’t assume you are always invisible or not making noise.
Watch that meter everytime you move. And be aware that using the accelerated
prone speed usually disabled your invisibility and increases your noise. And it’s
very hard to crawl in slow speed once you get used to the faster.
Always know wind direction, and have it in your face or crossing your position.
Trying to approach a hunting zone with the wind at your back is like ringing a
loud bell as you go.
-=Don’t ignore the Need Zone timing!=-
Expecting to find animals at a drink zone when it’s their time of day to be
elsewhere is one of the biggest reasons that unaware hunters are seeing no animals.
Useful Tips for Newcomers:
--------------------------
Don’t waste your money on scent eliminator, at least not now. It is useful, to
be sure, but honestly, if you watch your wind cone in the HUD, and avoid having
the wide part of the green triangle face the animals you are stalking, you’ll
be fine. Even with scent elim., you will still be detected by some animals, esp.
the higher scoring ones. Think of it as a nice perk, but try to learn to hunt
without it as in the long-run you’ll be better off.
As a beginner, don’t worry about trophies, Great Ones, and all that. Those things
will come in time, but focus instead on just learning to stalk and take good shots
(body shots from the side, near the front legs, so you hit the lungs). Try to get
within 150 meters for now (medium range). Your “job” at the beginning is really
just to learn how to find and shoot the animals without too much trouble.
If you want to make money, do the missions. They pay well, and will teach you
the basics quickly. If you get bored with them, stop and just hunt and go back
to them later. In the base game, turkeys, red deer (including females), and
foxes all pay well. If you want to jump into multiplayer or own the DLCs, pigs
pay fairly well. Ducks on Revantuli Coast (the islands on the southern end) are
really good, but you’ll need to get callers, set up blinds, with decoys, etc.,
and all that does take some investment.
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