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Cheat Codes: ------------ Submitted by: David K.
Archery Guide
-------------- Written by Kanuzira. This is a guide for al archery beginners and fanatics. I love the art of archery and all the things that come with it, this is why I chose to make a guide for you guys so everyone can enjoy the art of archery. -=Introduction The art of archery is much harder than using guns. With the bow you need to compensate, the arrows arc and the arrows are effected by wind. Most shots within 20m are most times spot on, from 20 meters and onwards you need to calculate the wind and how it is going to effect it. -=The Bows In theHunter: Call of the Wild there are three Compound bows, the RAZORBACK LITE CB-60, the BEARCLAW LITE CB-60, and the HAWK EDGE CB-70. -=RAZORBACK LITE CB-60 The RAZORBACK LITE CB-60 is the first Bow that you can unlock at €6000. It is effective against small game and medium game. It is a great bow but for bigger game I would recommend the HAWK EDGE CB-70. -=BEARCLAW LITE CB-60 The BEARCLAW LITE CB-60 is a free DLC that you can download on Steam and it costs €6000. The bow has an tactical skin and better accuracy than the RAZORBACK LITE CB-60. It also weight 0.5kg/1 pound more than the razorback. Like the RAZORBACK LITE CB-60 I would recommend the HAWK EDGE CB-70 for bigger game. -=HAWK EDGE CB-70 The HAWK EDGE CB-70 is the most expensive Compound bow, costing €48,000. The bow has 70lb let off and with this it has more power than the other two making it better for bigger game. With the extra power it also gains a flatter trajectory. -=The Arrows There are three types of arrows for different game. The integrity bonus with arrows is important for your total score. -=300gr Arrow This is a lightweight arrow and has the flattest trajectory of the 3. Due to the wide tip it has almost 0 penetration and makes it ineffective against medium/big game. -=Recommended animals: -=Red Fox 420gr Arrow This is a medium arrow and has a quite flat trajectory. This arrow is effective for almost all the animals in the game. -=Recommended animals: Coyote Roe Deer Fallow Deer Blacktail Deer Whitetail Deer Wild Boar Black Bear Red Deer -=600gr Arrow This is a heavy arrow and has a quite steep trajectory in comparison with the other 2. This is the arrow you want to use for big game since it has more mass and thus deeper penetration. -=Recommended animals: Roosevelt Elk Moose Bison -=The Wind The wind is one thing that you have to take in account if you are an archer. If you want to calculate the wind I recommend the wind prediction skill (Stalker) and the windage perk (Rifles). Otherwise you can use the particles in the wind and the sound as an indicator. After around 20m the wind is going to have a real effect on the arrow. -=RAZORBACK CB-60 + SWIFT MARK 3 -=300gr Arrow Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards Pin 2: 40 meters / 43.74 yards Pin 3: 90+ meters / 98.42 yards -=420gr Arrow Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards Pin 2: 29 meters / 31.71 yards Pin 3: 72 meters / 78.74 yards -=600gr Arrow Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards Pin 2: 20 meters / 21.87 yards Pin 3: 50 meters / 54.68 yards -=RAZORBACK CB-60 + SWIFT MARK 5 -=300gr Arrow Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards Pin 2: 10 meters / 10.94 yards Pin 3: 40 meters / 43.74 yards Pin 4: 70 meters / 76.6 yards Pin 5: 90+ meters / 98.42 yards -=420gr Arrow Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards Pin 2: 10 meters / 10.94 yards Pin 3: 29 meters / 31.71 yards Pin 4: 52 meters / 56.87 yards Pin 5: 72 meters / 78.7 yards -=600gr Arrow Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards Pin 2: 10 meters / 10.94 yards Pin 3: 20 meters / 21.9 yards Pin 4: 35 meters / 38.3 yards Pin 5: 50 meters / 54.68 yards -=HAWK EDGE CB-70 + SWIFT-MARK 3 -=300gr Arrow Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards Pin 2: 40 meters / 43.74 yards Pin 3: 90+ meters / 98.42 yards -=420gr Arrow Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards Pin 2: 29 meters / 31.71 yards Pin 3: 72 meters / 78.74 yards -=600gr Arrow Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards Pin 2: 20 meters / 21.87 yards Pin 3: 50 meters / 54.68 yards -=HAWK EDGE CB-70 + SWIFT-MARK 5 -=300gr Arrow Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards Pin 2: 10 meters / 10.94 yards Pin 3: 40 meters / 43.74 yards Pin 4: 70 meters / 76.6 yards Pin 5: 90+ meters / 98.42 yards -=420gr Arrow Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards Pin 2: 10 meters / 10.94 yards Pin 3: 29 meters / 31.71 yards Pin 4: 52 meters / 56.87 yards Pin 5: 72 meters / 78.7 yards -=600gr Arrow Pin 1: 3 meters / 3.28 yards Pin 2: 10 meters / 10.94 yards Pin 3: 20 meters / 21.9 yards Pin 4: 35 meters / 38.3 yards Pin 5: 50 meters / 54.68 yards↑ Top
Coyote Missions Guide with Hotspots
------------------------------------ Written by EdenStarGazer This is a simple guide with locations for spotting and harvesting coyotes for the Vualez missions in-game. I enjoy the missions because they provide a bit of challenge. -=The 'Coyote Hunter' is Not You=- First things first. You are not the Coyote Hunter. These little creatures love to hide in the rocks. Maybe they are looking for animals stuck here. Whatever the reason, it's easy to hear their little feet tripping over the rocks. But, more importantly, he is well aware of you long before you are of him. And, he is hunting you. He follows hunters around... perhaps because he's interested in the kill you may leave behind. This makes him an easy target, if you just let him find you. -=Coyote Spotting in Leviathan - Vualez #1=- This little lake off of Balmont Lake feeds the only good source of coyotes into Leviathan area. * Start at the Outpost to the NE. * Approach the rocky bank (B) headed towards the little lake You'll hear the coyote in the rocky area. * Stand in the open grassy area between patches of trees (green triangle trees) * Don't worry about the coyotes hearing you. They hunt you. * Squat & wait while using the distressed rabbit caller now & then. After a brief wait you'll hear one. Just keep waiting and he'll walk out to you and you can id him for the early Vaulez mission. Then you can shoot him for the good payout. This can be repeated if failure by fast traveling back to the outpost and returning. Best time of day is 5am. -=The Big Coyote Tour=- The Big Tour requires you to harvest a coyote in each of the five districts. This is really rather easy, and you will probably have to kill 2-3 coyotes before you can drag yourself away from these very nice hunting spots. But, the mission completion is very lucrative. These are the 5 locations I used: * Willipeg Cave back entrance- Highton Peaks * Deer Stand just south of the Layton Canyon Outpost in Nordon - Northern Ridge * Upper Cheelah Outpost & Lake - Southern Ridge * SE corner of Highlake @ hunting stand near point of interest - Lake District (West of the NE Outpost in Roonachee along the bend in the Oregon Trail POI) * South of the Outpost below Roonichee Lake, just before the track near hunting stand. The back entrance to the WIllipeg cave can be reached directly from the outpost. It is marked with the waypoint below. It can also be accessed directly by diving into the front of the cave on your ATV & driving out (after picking up the secret artifact.) -=Late Night With the Dogs - Vualez Main Mission=- * Revealing "The Moonlight Coyote Field" in Leviathan * This mission opened up a new location for coyotes for me. Though I'd explored both entire maps, and climbed over the Leviathan Volcano I'd not been in this particular secluded field. * When I found it canvassing the lake for this mission, the narrator had opened with this line about "the full moon doing strange things to animals". * When I walked into the clearing in the full moonlight at midnight, I was surrounded by multiple species of animals, along with a marching coyote band. Idk if this was triggered by having the mission active or not. I had a friend test the clearing at midnight, thanks #SimplyMemes. He uses a different playstyle than me. He has spent a great deal of time at hotspots mass shooting to hard level & has been playing about 6 months longer than me. I enjoy the exploration more than anything else. Though I kill about 25 animals daily, I explore & complete missions in equal measures in the month I've played the game. I have leveled pretty fast, on level 29 atm. But, he's several levels higher. So, Memes did not have the Late Night With the Dogs mission available or active when he did the experiment. Though he encountered a massive herd of species, and slaughtered them all judiciously as I watched livestream, there were no coyotes in the field. Barks could be heard in the area. It is my theory that certain missions trigger various spawns. I may be wrong in that. I will leave that right here. A photo of the "Moonlight Coyote Field" location follows circled in red. As you can see, my tent in the 2nd pic faces the cave on the opposite bank. There is a line of trees behind me as I'm taking the photo, & the clearing is behind the treeline. Do with it as you see fit. I'm not judging. The Moonlight Coyote Field Location & my tent setup for sleeping til midnight.↑ Top
Medved Taiga Mission: Caves Location
------------------------------------- Written by Riccardo1993 Caves location for mission Bronze Age and other caves. -=Bronze Age Mission Caves=- Bronze Age 1: Cave #1, coordinates: -9918.750, -7703.785 Bronze Age 2: Cave #2, coordinates: -8956.530, -5183.183 Bronze Age 3: Cave #3, coordinates: -10003.160, -11213.761 Bronze Age 4: Cave #4, coordinates: -8217.118, -8678.675 Bronze Age 5: Cave #5, coordinates: -6582.271, -7201.572 -=Other Caves=- Cave #6, coordinates: -6457.348, -10393.871 Cave #7, coordinates: -5046.169, -10591.723 Cave #8, coordinates: -6680.658, -5078.164 Cave #9, coordinates: -7185.993, -6060.759 Medved Taiga Trapper, Expedition and Nenets Point of Interest Locations: ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Written by Jobabysmaster These are the locations of the Points of Interests for Medved-Taiga. I think there are 10 locations for each category. -=Trapper Locations=- Location #1: -9210 x -10547 Locaiotn #2: -7995 x -10378 Location #3: -4789 x -11200 Location #4: -6502 x -8907 Location #5: -4675 x -7985 Location #6: -10503 x -9362 Location #7: -9399 x -8167 Location #8: -10594 x -7073 Location #9: -8463 x -5591 Location #10: -10283 x -5309 -=Nenets Locations=- Location #1: -9088 x -11440 Location #2: -6817 x -10674 Location #3: -5871 x -8968 Location #4: -4216 x -7747 Location #5: -12133 x -8935 Location #6: -9788 x -7642 Location #7: -9070 x -6781 Location #8: -11830 x -5791 Location #9: -7710 x -6300 Location #10: -6703 x -6550 -=Expedition Locations=- Location #1: -10170 x -10269 Location #2: ??? Location #3: -7642 x -8744 Location #4: -10412 x -8231 Location #5: -11834 x -8328 Location #6: -10967 x -6549 Location #7: -9904 x -5691 Location #8: -6476 x -7052 Location #9: -6854 x -5259 Location #10: -5567 x -5401↑ Top
Tips & Tricks
-------------- * Don’t run unless you are travelling between locations. (ATV is also great for this). Running will spook any animals that are close by. * Running/walking on the roads is quieter than running/walking in the vegetation. * Wearing a backpack increases your visibility and noise levels significantly. * Don’t use callers too often. It spooks the animals. * ATV’s are useful but they do scare animals. * Having your flaslight on at night does not spook the animals or increase your visibility level. * Keep you weapon loaded. There is nothing worse than having an animal nearby and you can’t shoot it. And it can be handy if there’s a bear nearby. * Hunting pressure. When you down an animal a purple spot appears on your map at the place you shot it. It roughly takes 30 seconds to 1 minute to appear. No shot = no kill. The pinker/purpler the spot the more chances of animals avoiding the area. Best to move around.↑ Top
Possible Diamond Animal Track by Weight
---------------------------------------- Written by O -=Hirschfelden=- Canada Goose 8.6 kg Roe Deer 33 kg Fallow Deer 96 kg Red Deer 232 kg Red Fox 14.06 kg Wildboar 218.5 kg European Bison 868 kg -=Layton Lake=- Mallard Duck 1.9625 kg Jack Rabbit 6.34 kg Coyote 25.8 kg Blacktail Deer 89.5 kg Whitetail Deer 95.65 kg Roosevelt Elk 478 kg Moose 590 kg Black Bear 265 kg -=Vurhonga Savanna=- Scrub Hare 5.37 kg Side-Striped Jackal 13.20 kg Springbok 40.75 kg Warthog 139.5 kg Lesser Kudu 89 kg Blue Wildebeest 272 kg Gemsbok ?? Cape Buffallo 895 kg -=Medved Taiga=- Muskdeer 16 kg Lynx 41.3 kg Wildboar 218.5 kg Reindeer 179.5 kg Brown Bear 444.8 kg Moose 590 kg↑ Top
How to Mount Any Animal On Any Plaque
-------------------------------------- Written by Dakota This is a guide created to help you mount any animal on any plaque in COTW Lodges. -=Steps=- * Mount the trophy you want onto another mount. * Click trophy manager and select "Retrieve Trophy" on the animal you want to mount, * Go to the mount you want to mount your animal on and press "E" while looking at it. Don't worry if there is already an animal mounted there. * When "Retrieve Trophy" comes up again, press "Enter" on your keyboard. It should be mounted! -=Note=- If you have any animal you can place on the mount you want your animal on, I suggest you place them on other mounts. If you don't, the placeable animal will end up being placed on that mount instead of your animal.↑ Top
Ammunition: Penetration vs Expansion
------------------------------------- Expansion bullets make the animal bleed more and faster but the lack of penetration means it will only hit one organ and you will have to be careful to avoid the bones. This means it’s imperative to have a good angle/view when using expansion bullets. Penetration bullets don’t do as much damage on impact but they can pierce through bone and several organs at once, which is more lethal than any damage done with an expansion round. Polymer rounds are ideal for one-hit kill shots via brain, spine or heart. The downside of polymer tips is that they need to hit multiple organs to be effective. If you mess up and hit only one organ, the animal won’t die as quickly because penetration rounds weren’t design for trauma damage like expansion rounds. Polymer/Penetration tips are better 90% of the time and that’s why they cost more money and take longer to unlock; it’s a progression thing. You go through less effective material before you can use better stuff.↑ Top
Hunting Strategy
----------------- Read the Codex/Tutorial Logs, Wildlife sections. The Wildlife entries will tell you each species preferred habitats and when they are generally active. Need zones are tied to habitat areas, so if you can find habitat areas, you’ll know where to scout for zones. When you are first starting to scout around for animal signs and need zones, don’t go looking for them when the animals are going to be active and traveling. There is no absolute guarantee you won’t bump into animals and spook them, but at least you’ve reduced the probability. Spooking is inevitable, but the animals get over it and will return to their normal routines after a while. Split up your excursions into the field into scouting first, hunting later. Find the travel corridors and need zones first, and come back to them on another day, well before the animals are due to arrive (it’s somewhat random, just because a zone’s occupancy time is 8am-12pm, say, doesn’t mean they will be there exactly at those times – they’ll wander in and out sometime in that interval). * Look for tracks: (a) backtrack them, you may find a need zone, and you are less likely to bump animals; (b) forward track them, following the animal’s direction of travel, BUT, only if you are not walking upwind to do it. Again, you might find need zones somewhere along the way. You have to move slower, as you don’t want to catch up to the animal and spook it too soon. * Listen for animal vocalizations – you can head in that direction to find tracks – but stop and wait for a bit. * Use your binoculars often – scan the area around you for possible animals – you can spot them – if they are in a need zone, it will be added to your map; at least you’ll know where an animal is, and you can try an approach – at least you’ll find some tracks to follow. Get up high somewhere and scan the landscape to spot animals from longer distances. It’s important that you stop often – this is what animals do themselves (if they are not fleeing danger or just trotting along because they have someplace to be) – walk a bit, stop, scent the wind, look around for movement or things that stand out from the rest of the scenery, have a snack, drink, bathroom, or pause break before moving on. Continuous movement is a dead giveaway that there may be potential danger around. The reason for separating scouting and hunting into separate excursions is so you can locate good spots and set up a concealed position from which to hunt. That’s ambush hunting. You get there long before the animals are around and you can wait for an opportunity. If you have the Tents&Blinds DLC and the Tripods&TreeStands DLC, you can set up a tent as well (but not too close to the zone) and sleep, rather than trekking in from an outpost. Don’t set up downwind of the zone, though – better to set up so that you have a crosswind across your line of sight. Smart animals will approach the zone from the downwind direction, so they can scent the wind for potential danger. You can also ambush hunt near travel corridors or pinch points – those routes that animals normally use to travel between habitat areas and zones. The other form of hunting is spot and stalk – with this method, you find a position with a good view of needs zones or potential zones and use your binoculars to spot – once you find a potential animal, you can stealth approach to within shooting distance – this is especially fun with bow hunting, since you have to get within 50m or so for a good shot, and that is challenging, but very satisfying. If you have long range shooting ability and the right loadout, you can even take a shot from your observation area. Again, be mindful of the wind and stay stealthy. You’ll notice that there are convenient large boulders in many places – you can go prone on top of those to get clear of ground clutter to get a good view of the area.↑ Top
Gameplay Tips and Tricks
------------------------- It would probably be more productive for us to list the ‘Don’ts’, rather than the ‘Dos’, simply because this game has so many dynamics that are learned over time and experience and would take pages to write. -=Don’t run!=- If you are heading to a specific area that you want to hunt, you can run until you get within 350 yards. But everytime you run you WILL spook everything within that area. And the higher level animals often don’t return. The ATV will spook further to around 600 yards. Being able to find good hunting in any area will be decreased every single time you tap that run button or start up that ATV. And getting into the habit of running is extremely easy when one doesn’t develop the patience of properly approaching an area. -=Don’t develop bad habits!=- Bad habits are very hard to break later on. These include clicking on everything to identify it. This can be unproductive for a few reasons. Learn to use your own eyes to identify tracks/signature early on to avoid developing that bad habit of being ‘click-happy’. Even though some missions will require it. -=Don’t ‘glass’ quickly !=- Being patient will become your greatest asset. Most people never develop this skill. Glassing means using your scope or binoculars to scan for animals or sign. And because of that glowing outline that shows around animals when they’re ‘lit’, many people just quickly scan across broad areas hoping something will light up. Another of those bad habits! It’s undoubtedly better to go to system>options>interface and turn off that ‘spotting outline’, so that you don’t become impatiently reliant on it, never developing the actual skill of finding what is really hiding in those woods. -=Don’t kill immediately upon new maps!=- Animal spawning mechanics are one of those well-kept Dev secrets. But one thing that seems obvious to most of us is that, you need to open Need Zones onto your new map, without ‘pressuring’ them, or worse, killing that same individual you just used to put that zone on your map. Once you get zones on your map, and give them some time to become used by more animals, you WILL start seeing more animals of the species you opened the zone with in that area. The fact that most new players will simply kill these animals right away is one of the main reasons they won’t see many animals in their maps. New maps pretty much require putting unruined zones on your map. -=Don’t ignore Hunting Pressure!=- When travelling the maps you must be aware of the purple to pink colored circles on your map that denote the degree of pressure applied in an area. Pinker implies more degree. It will not be productive to try to hunt in pressured areas, and it can take a few in-game days for them to recover. Don’t assume the lack of purple means that pressure has been removed. And be aware that you might be in an area you pressured previously that hadn’t yet recovered, even though there might not be any purple showing on the map. -=Don’t use inadequate ammo!=- This will result in your having to endlessly track cripples, often only to find they stopped bleeding and leaving you in despair. Get within 150 yards and aim broadside, at least until you can get the more powerful weapons. -=Don’t neglect your Presence!=- Every second you’re in their habitat, you are exposing yourself to their enhanced senses. Some more advanced than others, so know your prey. Be aware that they will far more often know you are there long before you know of them. If you go to the menu under hunter settings you can find a list that shows exactly how many animals you have spooked and what scared them. It’s eye opening. In the bottom right corner of your HUD there is a horizontal line with a couple of icons representing how visible you are, how noisy you are, and which way the wind is blowing. Ultimately you want that visibility line to either disappear, or be flat. When flat, you can look around without exposing yourself, but you cannot take one step without risk. When the line is gone, than you can take a step or two around without exposure but you still have to watch for that line to change as you move. Those hidden zones in bushes and trees are often not very large. Being prone is tricky. Don’t assume you are always invisible or not making noise. Watch that meter everytime you move. And be aware that using the accelerated prone speed usually disabled your invisibility and increases your noise. And it’s very hard to crawl in slow speed once you get used to the faster. Always know wind direction, and have it in your face or crossing your position. Trying to approach a hunting zone with the wind at your back is like ringing a loud bell as you go. -=Don’t ignore the Need Zone timing!=- Expecting to find animals at a drink zone when it’s their time of day to be elsewhere is one of the biggest reasons that unaware hunters are seeing no animals.↑ Top
Useful Tips for Newcomers
-------------------------- Don’t waste your money on scent eliminator, at least not now. It is useful, to be sure, but honestly, if you watch your wind cone in the HUD, and avoid having the wide part of the green triangle face the animals you are stalking, you’ll be fine. Even with scent elim., you will still be detected by some animals, esp. the higher scoring ones. Think of it as a nice perk, but try to learn to hunt without it as in the long-run you’ll be better off. As a beginner, don’t worry about trophies, Great Ones, and all that. Those things will come in time, but focus instead on just learning to stalk and take good shots (body shots from the side, near the front legs, so you hit the lungs). Try to get within 150 meters for now (medium range). Your “job” at the beginning is really just to learn how to find and shoot the animals without too much trouble. If you want to make money, do the missions. They pay well, and will teach you the basics quickly. If you get bored with them, stop and just hunt and go back to them later. In the base game, turkeys, red deer (including females), and foxes all pay well. If you want to jump into multiplayer or own the DLCs, pigs pay fairly well. Ducks on Revantuli Coast (the islands on the southern end) are really good, but you’ll need to get callers, set up blinds, with decoys, etc., and all that does take some investment.↑ Top